Late June in New York City is truly an exhilarating time. Summer Fridays are in full swing with afternoon drinks flowing freely. The streets are pulsing with music, heat, color. This is when the city really comes to life.
Tobalá
New York
07.10.2024
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4 MIN Read
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It was a warm evening like this when we found ourselves on an uptown bound train. An air of excitement filled the subway car as we waited for our stop. Spaced Magazine was headed to the Bronx, eager to explore beyond the Manhattan-Brooklyn bubble so many of us stick within. Our destination: a Michelin Guide Oaxacan restaurant in Riverdale.
Enter, Tobalá. Blending traditional Oaxacan ingredients with a modern flare, Tobalá is a gastronomical experience for the senses. It owes its name to a rare agave varietal, often called the king agave. Small in size, the tobalá seed is reserved for single-batch mezcals, making for an incredibly luxurious drinking experience. This concept set the tone for our entire evening.
From the moment we stepped inside, we were greeted like old friends. The space and the staff invited us to relax and enjoy. Bright stucco walls, skylights and an open-air kitchen pulled us in, prompting intrigue and interaction. Soon, we were sipping on hibiscus mezcalitas and carajillos – Pete Well’s drink of choice from his glowing New York Times review of Tobalá. Shrimp aguachiles and slow-roasted barbacoa tacos followed suit.
Over dessert, we had the pleasure of chatting with owners Eluisania and Moises Lopez. After working in another restaurant in the neighborhood, the couple went into business together in 2022. They opened Tobalá as a sanctuary for Oaxacan dining in Riverdale, inspired by their annual trips to the Mexican locale. As Moises attended to customers, Eluisania shared their upcoming trip to Oaxaca the following week. A lot of R&D and even more R&R, she explained. It felt like we were casually catching up over a good meal.
Slowly, the sun began to set outside. Flickering candles, soft music and laughter filled the room. If it weren’t for the carajillo’s sweet blend of espresso and tequila, we could have dozed off right there. Spirits high and leftovers in hand, we stepped outside. The heat had subsided, but the tantalizing feeling of New York in the summer still lingered. Sometimes, this feeling permeates through Downtown Manhattan on a night out or Brooklyn on a weekend. But on this night in late June, it was the Bronx that was alive at a beautiful Oaxacan restaurant in Riverdale.
Visuals by Abby Stearns
written by Mira Ciganek
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