The Chef
Mads Refslund, known for his work at Noma and MR in Copenhagen, made New York his home for the past 12 years. Following a consulting stint at Acme—a SoHo hotspot celebrated for both its cuisine and vibrant nightlife—Refslund spent eight years searching for a space to create a restaurant of his own. This endeavor wasn’t just about opening any restaurant; it was the realization of a long-held vision.
Seven months ago, Refslund finally shared the culmination of this decade-long dream. ILIS emerged—a cavernous warehouse transformed to challenge what exactly “fine-dining” is, and can be.
Prior to eating at ILIS, it was very special to speak with the chef and hear first hand what opening this new restaurant means to him. What struck me when we spoke was that Mads Refslund, despite having been in the restaurant world for over two decades, is seemingly still just as passionate, curious, and excited about his craft as the day his career started.
“I told myself if I come to work one day and it’s just becoming a job, then you know the passion [is going] away, and you need to find something else.”
Refslund spoke of how tirelessly he worked with designers to create the space just as he envisioned it, to create something beautiful but true to him, and that would live up to the potential of the enormous space. All aspects of ILIS have been meticulously considered—washed brick walls are adorned with artwork, long pendant lights illuminate wood tables, and artfully crafted chairs and leather booths spread out among the space. Soft gray paint contrasts with stark black counters, while plants and candles add warmth to each table. Sunlight floods through a skylight, bathing the dining room in natural light. Walking through ILIS, it is hard to believe you are still in Brooklyn.
“The ingredients we are using are so expensive, and I don’t compromise when it comes to [quality]…I truly believe in that.”
There is something deeply special about this pursuit, in a challenging business and a competitive market, with expensive ingredients and unpredictable growing seasons, to be pushing how people think about the food they eat, how they choose to invest in dining experiences, and challenging what they should expect from a high caliber restaurant.
“We’re definitely not pleasing everyone and I think that means we’re onto something… because if you’re just doing what everyone else is doing, you’re not breaking the norms. We can learn from [the negative press] and keep pushing ourselves.”
ILIS is, in the restaurant world, very young, but Refslund has compiled a team that pushes themselves, and an environment where he aims to get better, even incrementally, every day–a sentiment that he has passed to all of ILIS’ staff.
As we experienced the space for the first time and enjoyed a Saturday night in the world Refslund built, the commitment and diligence from the team in every detail, every course, every touch, could not have been more apparent.
Visuals by spaced magazine
written by olivia Weiss
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